Crochet Sweater “Polka Dot”

I love this sweater, everything about it. The hard not to notice polka dots, the way it fits perfectly to the body measurements. I especially love the side pockets. They are slightly slanted for a more comfortable fit of the hands into the pocket. I made certain that my pattern and tutorial was in-depth to make a pattern that looks deceivingly difficult, easy!

Pattern Notes

This sweater is made using one’s own body measurements – All standard measurements are given in the pattern
This pattern makes use of US crochet terminology
Measurements are in inches and centimetres
This pattern is for sizes:
- Women XS to 5XL
- Youth 12 yrs to 14yrs
- Child 2 yrs to 10 yrs
Find measurements (shoulder to shoulder, sleeve length and armhole depth) in the pattern (Pages 7, 15, 16, 17, 18)
You will need to take your own measurements for the pocket placement, width of the pocket and shoulder measurement – I will show you how to in the pattern (see page 11)
I used an Aran/Worsted (category 4) yarn, however, using a Double Knit/Light worsted/ category 3 yarn is totally acceptable. It is important though, that you keep to the same weight of yarn throughout the pattern – use a 5mm hook and one size smaller for the Ribbings
dc3/ dc5, etc means 3 or 5, etc double crochets worked in the same/ base colour yarn
brackets indicate stitches to be worked in the change of colour example (dc3) or (dc4) – you will change the colour of the yarn to work the Polka Dot pattern which is indicated by ( ) either working 3 dc’s or 4 dc’s – Page 25 – 26 How to change yarn
ch2 counts as a stitch – double crochet – UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED (with regard to ch2 at the neckline)
Decrease – yo, insert hook into 1^st st, pull up a loop, insert hook into 2^nd st, pull up a loop, yo, go through 3 loops on the hook, yo, go through 2 loops on the hook
Increase – work 2 stitches into 1 stitch
Decide on your chosen colours ie, the base colour and the colours of the Polka Dots – The Polka Dots are indicated in brackets ( ) in the pattern – See Swatch (Page 6) on how to get the lengths of yarn needed for the Polka Dots
Note – the pattern is the same for both Back and Front Panels up until the shoulders, therefore work 2 matching Panels ie, one for the Back and one for the Front and thereafter the pattern splits

Stitches and Abbreviations

ch/ ch’s = chain/s

st/ st’s = stitch/ stitches

sc/ sc’s = single crochet/ s

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

sk = skip

sl st = slip stitch

sp/s = space/es

WS = Wrong side

RS = Right Side

R = Round

SM = Stitch marker

decr = decrease

incr = increase

yo = yarn over

blo = back loop only

Materials

Yarn/ wool Category 4/ Worsted weight/Aran (I used approx. 600g in total for a size Small, also depending on the length)

*Image of the Yarn/ Wool I used*

Crochet hook 6,5mm & 5,5mm

Scissors

Stitch markers

Measuring tape

Yarn/ wool needle

Video Tutorials

Crochet Sweater “Polka Dot” – Tutorial

Check out https://youtu.be/MEuX4UcFock

Introduction to my Polka Dot Series – Tutorial on the stitch pattern, changing yarn colours and cutting of yarn lengths.

Check out https://youtu.be/EPTL7MaovA

Swatch

ch11

Into the 4^th st from the hook dc, dc all chs

ch3, turn, dc3, (dc3), dc4

ch3, turn, dc2, (dc5), dc3

ch3, turn, dc3, (dc3), dc4

Open the swatch – take note of the length of yarn used for the change of colour (st’s in brackets), add on an 8”allowance. Now you have an idea of the lengths of yarn needed to form the Polka Dots

Tip: Prepare the lengths of yarn for the Polka Dots in advance

Note : This pattern differs slightly from the Introduction video tutorial but that does not affect the outcome

Pattern

Back and Front Panels

Ribbing – Using the 5,5mm hook

ch11

Into the 3^rd ch from the hook – hdc, hdc all ch’s

ch2, turn, hdc all st’s (blo) – 10 st’s

Repeat R2 until the length of the Ribbing measures the Shoulder to Shoulder measurement + 2” or 5cm

Ribbing for a size Small

Shoulder to shoulder measurements

WOMENS MEASUREMENTS :

XS 14,5 inches 37cm

S 15 inches 38cm

M 16 inches 40,5cm

L 17 inches 43cm

XL 17,5 inches 44,5cm

2X 18 inches 45,5cm

3X 18 inches 45,5cm

4X 18,5 inches 47cm

5X 18,5 inches 47cm

YOUTH MEASUREMENTS :

12yrs 12 inches 30,5cm

14yrs 12,3 inches 31cm

CHILD MEASUREMENTS :

2yrs 9,5 inches 24cm

4yrs 9,7 inches 25cm

6yrs 10,3 inches 26cm

8yrs 10,7 inches 27cm

10yrs 11,3 inches 28.5cm

Back and Front Panels – Lower Body – using the 6,5mm hook

Continuing from Ribbing – working lengthwise along the top edge

ch2, turn, work 3 dc’s per 2 Rounds of Ribbing

Count the number of stitches and adjust the stitch count to a multiple of 12 + 3 in R2

ch2, turn, dc all st’s – incr or decr to adjust the stitch count to a multiple of 12 + 3

(Tip – If you need to work fewer increases to adjust the st count, then increase instead of decreasing, vice versa)

ch2, turn, dc5, (dc3), *dc9, (dc3)*

Repeat from *to* ending with dc6

ch2, turn, dc4, (dc4), *dc8, (dc4)*

Repeat from *to* ending with dc6

ch2, turn, dc5, (dc3), *dc9, (dc3)*

Repeat from *to* ending with dc6

ch2, turn, dc into all st’s

ch2, turn, dc11, (dc3), *dc9, (dc3)*

Repeat from *to* ending with dc12

R10

ch2, turn, dc10, (dc4), *dc8, (dc4)*

Repeat from *to* ending with dc12

R11

ch2, turn, dc11, (dc3), *dc9, (dc3)*

Repeat from *to* ending with dc12

R12

ch2, turn, dc into all st’s

R13

ch2, turn, dc into all st’s

R14

ch2, turn, dc into all st’s

Repeat R3 to R14 to required length of Sweater

IMPORTANT

For the Back Panel, end on a R8 or R14 repeat (in other words, you will end with 3 Rounds of dc worked in the base colour
For the Front Panel end 3 Rounds shorter than the Back Panel (in other words, you will end on a R5 or R11 repeat)

Do not fasten off – continue to the Back Shoulder (1) for the Back Panel or continue to the Front Shoulder (1) for the Front Panel

Image above – Notice that the back panel is 3 Rounds longer than the front panel

Back Shoulders

Mark out the Back Shoulder using the Shoulder measurement – see image above – Back Panel and image below for Shoulder measurement

Once you’ve marked out Shoulder (1), count the number of stitches marked off and use that number of stitches to mark off Shoulder (2)

Back Shoulder (1)

Continuing from where you had stopped

ch2, turn, dc to one stitch before the SM, work a decrease into the st before the SM and the one marked off

ch2 (does not count as a st), turn, dc to end

Fasten off, cut off excess yarn – leaving a long enough tail to help with the seaming

Back Shoulder (2)

Attach yarn to the opposite end

Repeat R1 and R2 as for Back Shoulder (1)

Fasten off, cut off excess yarn – leaving a long enough tail to help with the seaming

Back Panel is now complete

Front Shoulders

Mark out Front Shoulders

Use the same number of stitches as was used for Back Shoulders however add on 3 more st’s (in other words, the Front shoulder is 3 stitches more that the Back shoulder)

Mark off Shoulder (2) on the opposite side – Both Front shoulders must have the same number of stitches marked off

Front Shoulder (1)

Continuing from where you had stopped

ch2, turn, dc to one stitch before the SM, work a decrease into the st before the SM and the one marked off

ch2 (turning ch – does not count as a st), turn, dc to end

ch2, turn, dc to last two stitches, decr

(Note – do not work the decrease into the turning ch as it does not count as a st)

ch2 (turning ch – does not count as a st), turn, dc to end

ch2, turn, dc to last two stitches, decr

(Note – do not work the decrease into the turning ch as it does not count as a st)

Fasten off, cut off excess yarn

Front Shoulder (2)

Attach yarn to the opposite end

Repeat R1 to R5 as for Front Shoulder (1)

Fasten off, cut off excess yarn

Front Panel is now complete

Sleeve – work 2 panels

Chain a length of ch’s to measure the sleeve length measurement less 1”/ 2,5cm

Image showing chains measuring sleeve length less 1” (16” for a size Small)

Sleeve Length:

WOMENS MEASUREMENTS

XS 16,5 inches 42cm

S 17 inches 43cm

M 17 inches 43cm

L 17,5 inches 44,5cm

XL 17,5 inches 44,5cm

2XL 18 inches 45,5cm

3XL 18 inches 45,5cm

4XL 18,5 inches 47cm

5XL 18,5 inches 47cm

YOUTH MEASUREMENTS

12yrs 15 inches 38cm

14yrs 16 inches 40,5cm

CHILD MEASUREMENTS

2yrs 8,5 inches 21,5cm

4yrs 10,5 inches 26,5cm

6yrs 11,5 inches 29cm

8yrs 12,5 inches 31,5cm

10yrs 13,5 inches 34,5cm

Once you have got the length correct for your size, count the number of chains and adjust the chain count to a multiple of 12 + 5

Into the 4^th ch from the hook – dc, dc all ch’s

ch2, turn, dc all st’s

Repeat R3 to R14 (Just as was done for Back/ Front Panels) until the width of the sleeve measures twice the Armhole Depth measurement for your size

Do not end with the Polka Dot pattern unfinished – rather end with dc’s worked in the base colour

Fasten off, cut off excess yarn, leaving a long enough tail to help with the seaming

Repeat for other sleeve

Armhole Depth:

WOMENS MEASUREMENTS

XS 6,5 inches 16,5cm

S 7 inches 17,5cm

M 7,5 inches 19cm

L 8 inches 20,5cm

XL 8,5 inches 21,5cm

2XL 9 inches 23cm

3XL 9,5 inches 24cm

4XL 10 inches 25,5cm

5XL 10,5 inches 26,5cm

YOUTH MEASUREMENTS

12yrs 6,5 inches 16,5cm

14yrs 7 inches 17,5cm

CHILD MEASUREMENTS

2yrs 4,3 inches 10,5cm

4yrs 4,7 inches 12cm

6yrs 5 inches 12,5cm

8yrs 5,5 inches 14cm

10yrs 6 inches 15,5cm

Assembly of Sweater

Seam Front Panels to Back Panel at the shoulders
Seam Sleeve Panels to the sides – using the shoulder seam as a guide to centralise the panels

Image showing panels seamed together

Placement of Pockets

Before seaming the sides, we need to find the placement of the pockets

Physically measure along your body to decide on a comfortable placement – the side pocket is generally in between the waist and upper hip. Measure from your underarm downwards to the waist/hip (For me it was 8”)
Lay out the sweater flat – front panels on top of back panel – see image below
Measure along your sweater from underarm downwards and mark off (SM1)– In the image below, I’ve marked off 8” from the underarm downwards on either side

Measure your palm (see image below) to get the width of the opening of the pocket (for me, it was 4”)
Using this measurement, measure from the first SM downwards and mark off (SM2) – this will be the opening of the pocket – see image below

Image showing pocket marked off

Note – Remember to mark off both layers (Front and Back) on both sides for 2 pockets

Seam along the sides of the sweater from sleeve to first SM and then from second SM to bottom edge of the cardigan – Leaving pocket opening unstitched
Note: with regard to this pattern for the Pockets, SM1 is the top of the pocket (you will work a decrease at the top) and SM2 is the bottom of the pocket (you will work an increase at the bottom) – this increase/ decrease will cause the pocket to slant slightly which is ideal for side pockets

Pockets

Attach yarn to the pocket opening (WS) – see image below

ch1, sc all around the opening of the pocket, sl st to join

ch2, dc to top of the pocket (SM1) – work 1 decr, dc to bottom of the pocket (SM2) – work 1 incr, dc to end, sl st to join

Repeat R2 to the required depth of pocket (I repeated R2 6 times)

Second Last Round

ch2, dc, work decreases all around, sl st to join

Last Round – Optional

ch2, dc, work decreases all around, sl st to join

Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to seam up the pocket – seam the pocket closed

Repeat for other pocket

Sleeve Ribbing

Ribbing – Using the 5,5mm hook

ch11

Into the 3^rd ch from the hook – hdc, hdc all ch’s

ch2, turn, hdc all st’s (blo) – 10 st’s

Repeat R2 until the length of the Ribbing fits around the wrist

Fasten off, cut off excess yarn leaving a long enough tail to help with the seaming

Join both ends of Ribbing by seaming together

Fit Ribbing into sleeve – see image below – Attach Ribbing to bottom of sleeve by seaming together – gather up the sleeve to fit the Ribbing

Repeat for other Sleeve Ribbing

Neckline

Attach yarn to the neckline

ch1, sc all around the neckline, sl st to join

Neckline Ribbing

Continuing from the Neckline

ch5

sc into the 2^nd ch from the hook, sc x 3, sl st x 2 into the neckline

turn, sk sl st’s, sc x 4 (blo)

ch1, turn, sc x 4 (blo)

Repeat R2 and R3 all around the Neckline

Fasten off, cut off excess yarn leaving a long enough tail to help with the seaming

Seam together ends of Ribbing to join

Fasten off, cut off excess yarn, weave in all ends to complete

HOW TO CHANGE YARN COLOURS

Image (1) Before changing yarn, into the last stitch, with two loops on the hook, bring in the change of colour

Image (2) Complete the last st in the base colour with the change of colour

Image (3) Work the stiches in brackets ( ) to form the Polka Dot

Image (4) Leave the last st from the brackets ( ) unfinished with 2 loops on the hook. Bring in the base colour to complete the stitch, then continue on with the pattern in the base colour until the next Polka Dot

Check out my video as stated above for a more detailed explanation.

Crochet Sweater “Polka Dot”

Jayshree Naicker

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