This was a fun project. The third of my “Polka Dot” range. To be honest, I had Easter on my mind with this range. Those dots, I made them colorful to remind me of speckled eggs. I wanted this range to look fun and fresh and I hope that I’ve achieved that with all those colours.
Pattern Notes
- This cardigan is made using one’s own body measurements – All standard measurements are given in the pattern
- This pattern makes use of US crochet terminology
- Measurements are in inches and centimetres
- This pattern is for sizes:
- Women XS to 5XL
- Youth 12 yrs to 14yrs
- Child 2 yrs to 10 yrs
- Find measurements (shoulder to shoulder, sleeve length and armhole depth) in the pattern (Pages 9, 10, 13, 14, 17)
- You will need to take your own measurements for the pocket placement, width of the pocket and depth for the V Neckline – I will show you how to in the pattern
- I used an Aran/Worsted (category 4) yarn, however, using a Double Knit/Light worsted/ category 3 yarn is totally acceptable. It is important though, that you keep to the same weight of yarn throughout the pattern – use the same hook as recommended on the label of the yarn and one size smaller for the Ribbings
- dc3/ dc5, etc means 3 or 5, etc double crochets worked in the same/ base colour yarn
- brackets indicate stitches to be worked in the change of colour example (dc3) or (dc5) – you will change the colour of the yarn to work the Polka Dot pattern which is indicated by ( ) either working 3 dc’s or 5 dc’s – Page 27 to 29 How to change yarn
- ch3 counts as a stitch – double crochet
- Decrease – yo, insert hook into 1st st, pull up a loop, insert hook into 2nd st, pull up a loop, yo, go through 3 loops on the hook, yo, go through 2 loops on the hook
- Increase – work 2 stitches into 1 stitch
- Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc) – yo, insert the hook into the post of the stitch, going from the front, pull up a loop, yo, go through 2 loops on the hook, yo, go through 2 loops on the hook
- Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc) – yo, insert the hook into the post of the stitch, going from the back, pull up a loop, yo, go through 2 loops on the hook, yo, go through 2 loops on the hook
- Decide on your chosen colours ie, the base colour and the colours of the Polka Dots – The Polka Dots are indicated in brackets ( ) in the pattern – See Swatch (Page 6) on how to get the lengths of yarn needed for the Polka Dots
Stitches and Abbreviations
ch/ ch’s = chain/s
st/ st’s = stitch/ stitches
sc/ sc’s = single crochet/ s
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
sp/s = space/es
WS = Wrong side
RS = Right Side
R = Round
SM = Stitch marker
decr = decrease
incr = increase
yo = yarn over
fpdc = front post double crochet
bpdc = back post double crochet
Materials
Yarn/ wool Category 4/ Worsted weight/Aran (I used approx. 800g in total for a size Medium, also depending on the length)
*Image of the Yarn/ Wool I used*
Crochet hook 5,5mm & 4,5mm
5 x buttons
Scissors
Stitch markers
Measuring tape
Yarn/ wool needle
Video Tutorials
- Crochet Cardigan “Polka Dot” – Tutorial
Check out https://youtu.be/wbzR2TLOjsc
- Introduction to my Polka Dot Series – Tutorial on the stitch pattern, changing yarn colours and cutting of yarn lengths.
Check out https://youtu.be/EPTL7MaovA
Swatch
ch11
R1
Into the 4th st from the hook dc, dc all chs
R2
ch3, turn, dc3, (dc3), dc4
R3
ch3, turn, dc2, (dc5), dc3
R4
ch3, turn, dc3, (dc3), dc4
Open the swatch – take note of the length of yarn used for the change of colour (st’s in brackets), add on an 8”allowance. Now you have an idea of the lengths of yarn needed to form the Polka Dots
Tip: Prepare the lengths of yarn for the Polka Dots in advance
Pattern
Back Panel
Foundation Chain
Chain a length of chains to the desired length of the cardigan (measuring from the neckline downwards to the length of the cardigan required) – Tip: Preferably, stand in front of a mirror when doing this to get a more accurate length
Once the foundation chain is complete, count the number of chains to make sure that it is in multiples of 8 + 7 (increase to get it to a multiple of 8 + 7, if need be). Jot down the number of chains as you will need to use it for the Front panels
R1 (work stitches into the back of the chain as opposed to working them into the front of the chain – work them into the little “bumps” that you see at the back of the chain)
Into the 4th ch from the hook – dc, dc to the end of the ch
R2
ch3, turn, dc all st’s
R3
ch3, turn, dc4, (dc3), dc5, *(dc3), dc5*
Repeat from *to* to end
R4
ch3, turn, dc3, (dc5), *dc3, (dc5)*
Repeat from *to* ending with dc4
R5
ch3, turn, dc4, (dc3), dc5, *(dc3), dc5*
Repeat from *to* to end
R6
ch3, turn, dc into all st’s
R7
ch3, turn, dc into all st’s
R8
ch3, turn, dc into all st’s
R9
ch3, turn, dc8, (dc3), *dc5, (dc3)*
Repeat from *to* ending with dc9
R10
ch3, turn, dc7, (dc5), *dc3, (dc5)*
Repeat from *to* ending with dc8
R11
ch3, turn, dc8, (dc3), *dc5, (dc3)*
Repeat from *to* ending with dc9
Repeat R3 to R11 until the width of the Back Panel measures the Shoulder to Shoulder measurement + 2inches/5cm
Note: End with 2 Rounds of dc worked in the base colour
Do not end with the Polka Dot pattern unfinished – rather end with dc’s worked in the base colour – you may work more Rounds example if you end with 3 R’s in the base colour, you may need to reattach yarn to the start and work an extra R of dc’s in the base colour thereby creating uniformity (ie, starting and ending with the same number of Rounds worked in the base colour)
Fasten off, cut off excess yarn.
Image showing width measuring 18” in total for a size Medium
Shoulder to shoulder measurements
WOMENS MEASUREMENTS :
XS 14,5 inches 37cm
S 15 inches 38cm
M 16 inches 40,5cm
L 17 inches 43cm
XL 17,5 inches 44,5cm
2X 18 inches 45,5cm
3X 18 inches 45,5cm
4X 18,5 inches 47cm
5X 18,5 inches 47cm
YOUTH MEASUREMENTS :
12yrs 12 inches 30,5cm
14yrs 12,3 inches 31cm
CHILD MEASUREMENTS :
2yrs 9,5 inches 24cm
4yrs 9,7 inches 25cm
6yrs 10,3 inches 26cm
8yrs 10,7 inches 27cm
10yrs 11,3 inches 28.5cm
Front Side (1)
Chain the same number of ch’s as the back panel
R1 (work stitches into the back of the chain as opposed to working them into the front of the chain – work them into the little “bumps” that you see at the back of the chain)
Into the 4th ch from the hook – dc, dc to the end of the ch
R2
ch3, turn, dc all st’s
R3
ch3, turn, dc4, (dc3), dc5, *(dc3), dc5*
Repeat from *to* to end
R4
ch3, turn, dc3, (dc5), *dc3, (dc5)*
Repeat from *to* ending with dc4
R5
ch3, turn, dc4, (dc3), dc5, *(dc3), dc5*
Repeat from *to* to end
R6
ch3, turn, dc into all st’s
R7
ch3, turn, dc into all st’s
R8
ch3, turn, dc into all st’s
R9
ch3, turn, dc8, (dc3), *dc5, (dc3)*
Repeat from *to* ending with dc9
R10
ch3, turn, dc7, (dc5), *dc3, (dc5)*
Repeat from *to* ending with dc8
R11
ch3, turn, dc8, (dc3), *dc5, (dc3)*
Repeat from *to* ending with dc9
Repeat R3 to R11 until the width of the Front Panel measures HALF the Shoulder to Shoulder measurement
Note: End with Rounds of dc worked in the base colour
Do not end with the Polka Dot pattern unfinished – rather end with dc’s worked in the base colour – you may work more Rounds to reach the width required – no need to adjust the start
Fasten off, cut off excess yarn.
Repeat for Front Side (2)
Image showing Front Panels complete – width measuring 8’’ each for a size Medium
Sleeve
Chain a length of ch’s to measure the sleeve length measurement less 1”/ 2,5cm
Image showing chains measuring sleeve length less 1”
16” for a size Medium
Sleeve Length:
WOMENS MEASUREMENTS
XS 16,5 inches 42cm
S 17 inches 43cm
M 17 inches 43cm
L 17,5 inches 44,5cm
XL 17,5 inches 44,5cm
2XL 18 inches 45,5cm
3XL 18 inches 45,5cm
4XL 18,5 inches 47cm
5XL 18,5 inches 47cm
YOUTH MEASUREMENTS
12yrs 15 inches 38cm
14yrs 16 inches 40,5cm
CHILD MEASUREMENTS
2yrs 8,5 inches 21,5cm
4yrs 10,5 inches 26,5cm
6yrs 11,5 inches 29cm
8yrs 12,5 inches 31,5cm
10yrs 13,5 inches 34,5cm
R1 (work stitches into the back of the chain as opposed to working them into the front of the chain – work them into the little “bumps” that you see at the back of the chain)
Into the 4th ch from the hook – dc, dc to the end of the ch
R2
ch3, turn, dc all st’s
R3
ch3, turn, dc4, (dc3), dc5, *(dc3), dc5*
Repeat from *to* to end
R4
ch3, turn, dc3, (dc5), *dc3, (dc5)*
Repeat from *to* ending with dc4
R5
ch3, turn, dc4, (dc3), dc5, *(dc3), dc5*
Repeat from *to* to end
R6
ch3, turn, dc into all st’s
R7
ch3, turn, dc into all st’s
R8
ch3, turn, dc into all st’s
R9
ch3, turn, dc8, (dc3), *dc5, (dc3)*
Repeat from *to* ending with dc9
R10
ch3, turn, dc7, (dc5), *dc3, (dc5)*
Repeat from *to* ending with dc8
R11
ch3, turn, dc8, (dc3), *dc5, (dc3)*
Repeat from *to* ending with dc9
Repeat R3 to R11 until the width of the sleeve measures twice the Armhole Depth measurement
Note: End Rounds of dc worked in the base colour
Do not end with the Polka Dot pattern unfinished – rather end with dc’s worked in the base colour
Fasten off, cut off excess yarn.
Repeat for other sleeve
Armhole Depth:
WOMENS MEASUREMENTS
XS 6,5 inches 16,5cm
S 7 inches 17,5cm
M 7,5 inches 19cm
L 8 inches 20,5cm
XL 8,5 inches 21,5cm
2XL 9 inches 23cm
3XL 9,5 inches 24cm
4XL 10 inches 25,5cm
5XL 10,5 inches 26,5cm
YOUTH MEASUREMENTS
12yrs 6,5 inches 16,5cm
14yrs 7 inches 17,5cm
CHILD MEASUREMENTS
2yrs 4,3 inches 10,5cm
4yrs 4,7 inches 12cm
6yrs 5 inches 12,5cm
8yrs 5,5 inches 14cm
10yrs 6 inches 15,5cm
Assembly of Cardigan
- Seam Front Panels to Back Panel at the shoulders
- Seam Sleeve Panels to the sides – using the shoulder seam as a guide to centralise the panels
Image showing panels seamed together
Placement of Pockets
Before seaming the sides, we need to find the placement of the pockets
- Physically measure along your body to decide on a comfortable placement – the side pocket is generally in between the waist and upper hip. Measure from your underarm downwards to the waist/hip (For me it was 10”)
- Lay out the cardigan flat – front panels on top of back panel – see image below
- Measure along your cardigan from underarm downwards and mark off (SM1)– In the image below, I’ve marked off 10” from the underarm downwards on either side
- Measure your palm (see image below) to get the width of the opening of the pocket (for me, it was 4”)
- Using this measurement, measure from the first SM downwards and mark off (SM2) – this will be the opening of the pocket – see image below
Image below showing pockets on either side marked off
Note – Remember to mark off both layers (Front and Back)
- Seam along the sides of the cardigan from sleeve to first SM and then from second SM to bottom edge of the cardigan – Leaving pocket opening unstitched
- Note: with regard to this pattern for the Pockets, SM1 is the top of the pocket (you will work a decrease at the top) and SM2 is the bottom of the pocket (you will work an increase at the bottom) – this increase/ decrease will cause the pocket to slant slightly which is ideal for side pockets
Pockets
Attach yarn to the pocket opening (WS) – attach yarn to the front loop of the stitch as shown – see image below
R1 (working into the front loops only)
ch3, dc all st’s around the opening of the pocket, sl st to join
R2
ch3, dc to top of the pocket (SM1) – work 1 decr, dc to bottom of the pocket (SM2) – work 1 incr, dc to end, sl st to join
Repeat R2 to the required depth of pocket (I repeated R2 6 times)
Last Round
Work decreases all around
Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to seam up the pocket
Repeat for other pocket
Adjustment to the Front Opening of the Cardigan – Creating a slight V Neckline
Image above showing V on the right / V on the left is still to be worked
Mark off the depth of the Neckline as shown in the image above – Mark off both left and right sides with SM’s – I marked off 8” – You will work st’s from the bottom edge to the SM’s
Attach yarn to the bottom edge of the Front Panel Side (1)
R1
ch3, dc to 3 st’s before SM, hdc, sc, sl st
R2
turn, sl st into the next st, sl st, sc , hdc, dc to end
Fasten off, cut off excess yarn
Repeat for Front Panel Side (2)
Edgings
Bottom Edging
Attach yarn to the bottom edge of the Cardigan on one side
R1
ch3, turn, dc all along the bottom edge – space st’s evenly
R2
ch3, turn, *fpdc, fpdc, bpdc, bpdc*
Repeat from *to* to end
R3 – R6
Repeat R2
Fasten off cut off excess yarn
Sleeve Edgings
Attach yarn to the bottom edge of the sleeve
R1
ch3, turn, dc all along the bottom edge – space st’s evenly, sl st to join
R2
ch3, turn, *fpdc, fpdc, bpdc, bpdc*
Repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join
Fasten off, cut off excess yarn
Repeat for other sleeve
Front Opening Edging
Attach yarn to the Front Panel at the bottom edge on one side
R1
ch3, turn, dc all along the front opening – space st’s evenly where necessary
R2
ch3, turn, *fpdc, fpdc, bpdc, bpdc*
Repeat from *to* to end
R3
ch3, turn, *fpdc, fpdc, bpdc, bpdc*
Repeat from *to* to end
R4
ch3, turn, *fpdc, fpdc, bpdc, bpdc*
Repeat from *to* to end
Decide on button placements – use SM to denote button holes – see image below
R5
ch3, turn, *fpdc, fpdc, bpdc, bpdc* – refer to Note below for Buttonholes
Repeat from *to* to end
NOTE: At SM’s do not work a stitch – instead ch1 and sk the st – the ch1/sk st forms the button hole
R6
ch3, turn, *fpdc, fpdc, bpdc, bpdc*
Repeat from *to* to end
NOTE: dc into ch1 sp
Fasten off, cut off excess yarn
Weave in all ends to complete
HOW TO CHANGE YARN COLOURS
Image (1) Before changing yarn, into the last stitch, with two loops on the hook, bring in the change of colour
Image (2) Complete the last st in the base colour with the change of colour
Image (3) Work the stiches in brackets ( ) to form the Polka Dot
Image (4) Leave the last st from the brackets ( ) unfinished with 2 loops on the hook. Bring in the base colour to complete the stitch, then continue on with the pattern in the base colour until the next Polka Dot
Check out my video as stated above for a more detailed explanation.
