This Duster Cardigan is so versatile. Change the length and it becomes an everyday cardi or go even shorter and crop it, of course you would have to skip on the pockets in that case. Overall, it’s an easy, fuss free pattern!
Pattern Notes
- This cardigan is made using one’s own body measurements
- This pattern makes use of US crochet terminology
- Measurements are in inches and centimetres
- This pattern is for sizes:
- Women XS to 5XL
- Measurements for the various sizes are provided for in the pattern. Should you wish to take your own measurements, by all means do so.
- Should you not know what size you fall into – physically take your shoulder to shoulder measurement (this measurement is taken using a measuring tape, from the edge of the shoulder on one side – going across the neckline to the edge of the shoulder on the other side) and match it to the shoulder to shoulder measurements provided – the measurement closest to the one taken is the size you will use
- Find measurements (shoulder to shoulder and armhole depth) in the pattern as you go along
- sc-ch3-3dc means sc, ch3 and 3 double crochets worked into one stitch
- ch3 counts as a stitch – double crochet (dc) – unless otherwise stated
- dc-ch1-dc = all worked into the space in-between ch3 and 3dc
- Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc) – yo, insert the hook into the post of the stitch, going from the front, pull up a loop, yo, go through 2 loops on the hook, yo, go through 2 loops on the hook
- Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc) – yo, insert the hook into the post of the stitch, going from the back, pull up a loop, yo, go through 2 loops on the hook, yo, go through 2 loops on the hook
- How to work a decrease: yo, insert the hook into the st, pull up a loop, insert the hook into the next st, pull up a loop, yo, go through 3 loops on the hook, yo, go through 2 loops on the hook
Stitches and Abbreviations
ch/ ch’s = chain/s
st/ st’s = stitch/ stitches
sc/ sc’s = single crochet/ s
dc = double crochet
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
sp/s = space/es
WS = Wrong side
RS = Right Side
R = Round
SM = Stitch marker
dec = decrease (work one stitch into 2 st’s to decrease)
yo = yarn over
fpdc = front post double crochet
bpdc = back post double crochet
Materials
Yarn/ wool Acrylic OR Cotton Category 3/ light worsted/ Double Knit
Image of the Yarn/ Wool I used
4mm Crochet hook for the Back, Front, Sleeves and Pockets
Scissors
Stitch markers
Measuring tape
Yarn/ wool needle
Pattern
Back Panel
Foundation Chain
Chain a length of chains to the desired length of the cardigan (measuring from the shoulder downwards to the required length of the cardigan) (in the main image – the foundation chain was 128 chains) Take note that the chain does stretch out after R1, I advise to take a chain slightly shorter (2inches/ 5cm) than the desired length
Once the foundation chain is complete, count the number of chains and adjust to a multiple of 3 + 2
R1 (work stitches into the back of the chain as opposed to working them into the front of the chain – work them into the little “bumps” that you see at the back of the chain)
Into the 2nd ch from the hook – sc, sc all ch’s
R2
ch3, turn, dc all st’s
R3
ch1, turn, sc-ch3-3dc into the same st as ch1, *sk2, sc-ch3-3dc*
Repeat *to* ending with sk2, sc
R4
ch3 (counts as 1st dc), turn, dc into same st as ch3 (counts as 2nd dc), *dc-ch1-dc into the space in – between ch3 and 3dc*
Repeat *to* ending with 2dc into last st
R5
ch3, turn, dc into all dc’s, dc into all ch1 sp’s (Note: remember to dc into the 3rd ch from ch3 at the end as ch3 counts as a st – You will therefore begin with 2dc’s and end with 2dc’s)
R6
ch1, turn, sc into same st as ch1, sc all st’s
R7
ch3, turn, dc all st’s
Repeat R3 to R7 until the width of the panel measures half the shoulder to shoulder + 1inch/ 2,5cm
Note – You may need to alter the stitch pattern as you get to the end in order to reach the required width – should you feel that you are unable to work an entire set (R3 to R7), simply work Rounds of dc to get to the required width – you may also opt to end on a R5 or R6 or R7 repeat
You may work the panel slightly larger than the half the shoulder to shoulder + 1”/ 2,5cm but you may not work it smaller than the measurement
Shoulder to shoulder measurements
*For half the back panel – divide the shoulder to shoulder measurement by 2 and then add on 1inch/ 2,5cm (The completed back panel must measure the shoulder to shoulder measurement + 2inches/ 5cm) (It may measure slightly more – an inch/2,5cm or so but not less)
*For the front panel (side 1 & side 2) – use half the shoulder to shoulder measurement less 1inch/ 2,5cm then continue on to complete the panel as per the pattern
WOMENS MEASUREMENTS:
XS 14,5 inches 37cm
S 15 inches 38cm
M 16 inches 40,5cm
L 17 inches 43cm
XL 17,5 inches 44,5cm
2X 18 inches 45,5cm
3X 18 inches 45,5cm
4X 18,5 inches 47cm
5X 18,5 inches 47cm
You are now working the second half of the back panel. Reattach yarn to the opposite side of the panel to maintain the flow of the stitch pattern – Reattach yarn to the start and not where you had fastened off.
Work one Round of ch3, dc all st’s – then continue with the pattern by repeating R3 to R7 until the width of the complete back panel measures the shoulder to shoulder measurement + 2inches/ 5cm
Fasten off – cut off excess yarn
Image of back panel for a size Medium
Front Side (1) Panel
Foundation Chain
Chain the same length of chains as the back panel
R1 (work stitches into the back of the chain as opposed to working them into the front of the chain – work them into the little “bumps” that you see at the back of the chain)
Into the 2nd ch from the hook – sc, sc all ch’s
R2
ch3, turn , dc all st’s
Repeat R2 until the front panel measures half the shoulder to shoulder measurement less 1inch/2,5cm then work R3, R4, R5 (as for the back panel) to complete the Front Side (1) panel
Fasten off – cut off excess yarn
Repeat for Front Side (2)
Image showing 2 Front Panels
Joining Front Panels to the Back Panel at the shoulders:
With the Back Panel laid out flat and the Front Panels laid out on top of the Back panel, seam along top edge/ shoulders to join
Mark armholes
With the back laid out flat and the front laid out on top of the back, mark out the armhole depths. Along the length of the body, from the top edge at the shoulders, mark off the armhole depth. Place the measuring tape at the top edge and measure the armhole depth for your size – mark it off with a SM
Count the number of stitches marked off and use that figure to mark off the armhole depth on the other layer and on the opposite side (both layers)
Image – marking off armhole depth
Armhole Depth:
WOMENS MEASUREMENTS
XS 6,5 inches 16,5cm
S 7 inches 17,5cm
M 7,5 inches 19cm
L 8 inches 20,5cm
XL 8,5 inches 21,5cm
2XL 9 inches 23cm
3XL 9,5 inches 24cm
4XL 10 inches 25,5cm
5XL 10,5 inches 26,5cm
Joining Front to Back at sides
With the body laid out flat, the front on top of the back – seam “stitch for stitch” along the sides from SM’s at Armhole to the bottom. Repeat for the opposite side
Sleeve
Attach yarn to the underarm of the armholes
R1
ch1, sc all around the armhole, sl st to join
Note: count the number of st’s for R1 and adjust the stitch count to a multiple of 3 in R2
R2
ch3, turn, dc all st’s – adjust stitch count to a multiple of 3 (by decreasing, if need be), sl st to join
R3
ch4, turn, 3dc into same st as ch4, *sk2, sc-ch3-3dc into one st*
Repeat from *to* ending with sk 2, sl st into the st at the bottom of ch4 to join
R4
Turn, sl st x 4 to get into the space in-between ch3 and 3dc, ch4 (counts as dc + ch1)-dc, *dc-ch1-dc into space in-between ch3 and 3dc*
Repeat *to* ending with sl st into the 3rd ch from ch4 to join
R5
ch3, turn, dc into all dc’s, dc into all ch1 sp’s, sl st into the 3rd ch from ch3 to join
R6
ch1, turn, sc into same st as ch1, sc all st’s, sl st to join
R7
ch3, turn dc all st’s, sl st to join
Repeat R3 to R7
*for a ¾ sleeve – stop at the elbow – preferably at a R5 or R7 repeat– work approx. 12 (or more) decreases (depending on the tightness required) into the last Round to tighten up on the sleeve (space the decreases all around the Round – do not work them consecutively (one after the other)) making sure that the stitch count is in multiples of 4 and then work the Sleeve Edging
*for a full length sleeve – stop 2inches/ 5cm before the wrist – preferably at a R5 or R7 repeat, making sure that the stitch count is in multiples of 4 and then work the Sleeve Edging
Note: For a full length sleeve, in order to taper off the sleeve work 3 decreases for every R5 repeat after the elbow.
Work the decrease for the decrease Rounds as follows: work the first decrease into the 2 stitches after ch3 at the start of the Round, work the second decrease into the 2 stitches along the centre/middle of the Round, work the third decrease into the 2 stitches before sl st into ch3 to join.
Working 3 decreases per decrease Round will maintain the stitch count to a multiple of 3
Sleeve Edging
R1
ch3, *fpdc, fpdc, bpdc, bpdc*
Repeat from *to*, sl st to join
R2 – R4
Repeat R1
Fasten off, cut off excess yarn
Repeat for the other sleeve
Edging – Bottom of Cardigan
Attach yarn to the bottom of the cardigan at one side
R1
ch3, dc all along the bottom of the cardigan – Stitch count in multiples of 4
Note: there are no actual stitches to work into – keep your stiches evenly spaced throughout
R2
ch3, *fpdc, fpdc, bpdc, bpdc*
Repeat from *to*, sl st to join
R3 – R5
Repeat R2
Fasten off, cut off excess yarn
Edging – Along the front opening of the Cardigan
Begin at the bottom of the front on one side – Attach yarn
R1
ch3, dc all along the front-neckline-front of the cardigan – Stitch count in multiples of 4
Note: there are no actual stitches to work into along the neckline – keep your stiches evenly spaced throughout
R2
ch3, *fpdc, fpdc, bpdc, bpdc*
Repeat from *to*, sl st to join
R3 – R5
Repeat R2
Fasten off, cut off excess yarn
Pockets (make 2)
Foundation ch
ch27
R1
Into the 3rd ch from the hook – dc, dc all ch’s
R2
ch1, turn, sc-ch3-3dc into the same st as ch1, *sk2, sc-ch3-3dc*
Repeat *to* ending with sk2, sc
R3
ch3 (counts as 1st dc), turn, dc into same st as ch3 (counts as 2nd dc), *dc-ch1-dc into the space in – between ch3 and 3dc*
Repeat *to* ending with 2dc into last st
R4
ch3, turn, dc into all dc’s, dc into all ch1 sp’s (Note: remember to dc into the 3rd ch from ch3 at the end as ch3 counts as a st – You will therefore begin with 2dc’s and end with 2dc’s)
R5 – R9
ch3, turn, dc all st’s
R10
ch1, turn, sc-ch3-3dc into the same st as ch1, *sk2, sc-ch3-3dc*
Repeat *to* ending with sk2, sc
R11
ch3 (counts as 1st dc), turn, dc into same st as ch3 (counts as 2nd dc), *dc-ch1-dc into the space in – between ch3 and 3dc*
Repeat *to* ending with 2dc into last st
R12
ch3, turn, dc into all dc’s, dc into all ch1 sp’s (Note: remember to dc into the 3rd ch from ch3 at the end as ch3 counts as a st – You will therefore begin with 2dc’s and end with 2dc’s)
Fasten off – Cut off excess yarn, leaving a long tail to help seam the pockets to the cardigan
Decide on the placement of the pocket – It’s best to fit on the cardigan and then decide
Seam along pocket edges to attach to the cardigan – leaving the top edge of pocket unseamed
Fasten off, cut off excess yarn, weave in all the ends
And that’s a wrap 😉
